Oxford → Loch Ness → Istanbul
Could we, we wondered, take a 65ft Dutch barge from Oxford to Istanbul (via Loch Ness)?
We had absolutely no idea. But we really wanted to find out.
How it started
So we organised our affairs, bought the boat and set off.
We arranged our lives around the idea of a long voyage, bought Che Bella Vita, a Piper 65M built new in 2024, and in July 2024 we slipped our lines in Oxford on our journey of a lifetime. Down the Thames, around the coast of Britain, through the Scottish canals, across the Channel and on through the rivers and seas of Europe to the Bosphorus. Nobody we asked could tell us whether it was sensible. Most suggested it wasn't.
The weather decides most things. We've learned to read tides and forecasts, to fix what breaks, to wait out a gale in a harbour we'd never heard of and to fall in love with it. This site is our record of some of our memories and notes: the places, the people, the mishaps and the lessons.
Moments from the voyage
Land's End, and a little company
The Logbook
Day-by-day tales and photos from the voyage so far, from the Thames to the Bristol Channel.
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Maintenance
The things we've learned keeping a barge running: engines, water, electrics and more.
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The Journey
Where we've been, where we're heading, and the two routes we might take from Calais.
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The route
One stage at a time
2024
The Upper Thames
Oxford → Marlow
Where it all began. Before any of the big water came a season of exploration on the Upper Thames: down from Oxford past Abingdon, Wallingford, Reading and Henley as far as Marlow, then all the way back again. Locks, swivels, low bridges and the first real feel of how Che Bella Vita handles.
2024
Oxford to Portishead
Oxford → Portishead
Then the big one. Left Oxford in July 2024, down the Thames through London and Chiswick, out to Chatham, Dover, Eastbourne, Portsmouth, Weymouth, Torquay, Plymouth, the Lizard, Penzance and Padstow, then across to Portishead at the head of the Bristol Channel. The logbook has the day-by-day notes.
2025
The Bristol Estuary, the Severn & Cardiff
Portishead → Cardiff
A whole year on home water, exploring the Bristol Estuary, the River Severn and the Cardiff area. Learning the tides, the mudflats and the local harbours, and getting to know the boat properly.
2026
Bristol to Whitehaven
Bristol → Whitehaven
Off up the Welsh coast: Cardiff, Oxwich Bay, Milford Haven, New Quay, Porth Dinllaen and Conwy, then across to Preston and Fleetwood and on to Whitehaven. Weather and tide will decide exactly where we linger.
Late 2026
Irish Sea & North Wales
Whitehaven → North Welsh coast
The next few months are spent in the Irish Sea: Bangor near Belfast, Fleetwood, Preston, Liverpool and the North Welsh coast. Weather and tide will decide exactly where we linger.
Spring and summer 2027
Crinan & Caledonian Canals
Crinan → Loch Ness
A slow summer in Scotland's western and central canals: Crinan, the Caledonian Canal and the highland locks between.
Come along for a stretch
We're going anyway, and you're welcome aboard
Now and then there's room for a guest or two. If our route matches where you'd like to be, join us for an afternoon, a few days or a week: take the wheel, learn the boat and share the home-made food. Every day is different, because the weather writes the plan. Here is roughly how one tends to unfold.
Your turn at the wheel
If you want it, you'll get it. Mike and Kate happily hand over the wheel: reading the channel, calling the tide, threading a lock. Nothing aboard is a spectator sport.
Moored by evening
We tie up wherever the day leaves us, and Kate cooks. Home-made food, an unhurried table, and tomorrow's plan redrawn on the strength of the forecast.
The ship's dog, off duty
Bella's job description was simple: eat bones, sleep, and campaign for a seat on the sofa. On a good day she achieved all three.